Tag Archives: Oslo

Facebooktwitterrssinstagram

At the end of my long rail journey on July 5, I ended up in the beautiful little village of Flåm.  It sits at the foot of a branch of the Songefjord.

Now, technically, I’d been on a fjord for days.  The Norwegian capital of Oslo is at the foot of a large, wide fjord:

oslo fjord map

And while it’s beautiful, it’s not really what you think of when you think fjord.

But THIS IS:

No more pining necessary.
No more pining necessary.

This is the view looking north from Flåm.

As I stood there, I reflected on my ScandiRAYvia adventure, and how I’d been seeing places I’d dreamed of seeing for most of my life.  At that moment, the majesty of this spot and my awareness of my great good fortune to have the opportunity to see it simply overwhelmed me.  I stood there and cried, like…. like someone standing there crying.

Travel is so important to me, and it’s such a privilege.  It’s a privilege of health.  It’s a privilege of money.  It’s a privilege of time.  It’s a privilege of luck.  And I have all four of those in spades.

Health?  Yeah, I have Type-2 Diabetes.  But I’m beating it back!  Yeah, I had a double bypass thirteen years ago.  But it saved my life!  Yeah, I have severe sleep apnea.  But it’s 100% successfully treated with the C-PAP.  Etc.  Despite these realities,  I’m healthy enough to traipse around Scandinavia.  I’m 56 and I have carried my own (heavy!) bags the whole trip.  Hiked probably an average of ten miles a day.  Climbed things like this:

Steeple_Distance

And this:

Stupid_Staircase

My health and strength have not abandoned me, damn it.  Who knows how long I’ll have it?   Need to use it while I can!

My financial future is a complete mess:  I have virtually no retirement, no nest egg.  I basically cannot afford to get old.  BUT right now I’m working and was able to pay for this magical journey.

So yeah, I’m lucky.  Lucky to have been able to make this dream of mine come true.

And so yeah, I cried.

Here's my hotel in Flam.
Here’s my hotel in Flam.

 

Flamcottages
These sweet cottages are vacation rentals.

 

Next:  Cruising the Sognefjord!

 

 

Average Rating: 4.4 out of 5 based on 156 user reviews.

Facebooktwitter
Facebooktwitterrssinstagram

On July 7, I took the train ride I’d been so looking forward to.  The train ride that was one of the main reasons I created my ScandiRAYvia adventure.

The first the segment of the journey took me out of the urban bustle of Oslo and into the Norwegian countryside.  The scenery was gorgeous northern farm with endless postcard-ready red barns.

Then we began climbing.

And climbing!

Eventually we made our way to the town of Myrdal, where we changed trains and began our steep descent on the legendary Flamsbana.

The Flamsbana is one of the steepest train journeys in the world that runs on normal tracks.  It was gorgeous and a bit hair-raising.

Unfortunately, it was a terrible day for taking photos.  Try taking good pictures from a moving train.  Every now and then they’d stop at a particularly nice view to let us take photos, but the crush of the crowd really kept that from being a viable option.

So what was arguably the most beautiful day of my trip is the one I have no good visual recording of.  Sorry about that.

But trust me, it was FABulous.

However, at the end of the day, we arrived in beautiful Flåm, the tiny village at the bottom of the mountains and at the foot of a large branch of the Sognefjord, the largest fjord in Norway.

To compensate for the lack of photos for this beautiful rail journey, here’s two more shots from Oslo:

Groovy condo on the waterfront in Oslo.
Groovy condo on the waterfront in Oslo.
Where they decide who gets the Nobel Peace Prize.  I think I'm nominated this year.
Where they decide who gets the Nobel Peace Prize. I think I’m nominated this year.

 

Next:  The Fjords, for realz!!

 

Average Rating: 4.9 out of 5 based on 218 user reviews.

Facebooktwitter
Facebooktwitterrssinstagram

I really enjoyed Oslo.  I could picture myself spending lots of time here.  It was easy to be comfortable in such a well-put-together city.

Of course, I’d have to be rich to spend much time here.

I realize I haven’t shown you the Oslo City Hall yet.  I love how severe it is:

The Oslo City Hall does NOT want to hear about any of your nonsense.
The Oslo City Hall does NOT want to hear about any of your nonsense.

Getting around the city was a snap, with the subways, buses, and trolleys.

I Do have to give a thumbs down to the TGI Fridays in the city center.  Despite having a charming hostess from San Diego, the service was ridiculously slow.  I was there on a Monday afternoon, hardly a rush time, and after waiting for a cheese quesadilla for an hour I gave up and left.

Straight Outta San Diego
Straight Outta San Diego

 

On my last day in the city I took everyone’s advice and did a quick tour of the remarkable Vigeland Sculpture Park.  This is a huge park dedicated to the unusual work of a single artist:  Gustav Vigeland.  I got lots of pictures on my visit, which was briefer than I wished because it was really starting to rain.

In  a perfect world I’d spend hours in this park with the camera, preferably RIGHT after it opens, so I wouldn’t have so many other gawkers to contend with.

But check out the strange and beautiful work of Gustav Vigeland!

Vigeland_1

Vigeland_2

Vigeland_3

Vigeland_4

Vigeland_6

Vigeland_7

Vigeland_8

Vigeland_9

Vigeland_10

Next:  ON TO THE FJORDS!

Average Rating: 4.7 out of 5 based on 226 user reviews.

Facebooktwitter
Facebooktwitterrssinstagram

Had a Munch-themed day.  He’s the most famous artist from Norway, and the Munch museum is a lovely place.  Currently they have a fascinating exhibit comparing Munch with Van Gogh.

Why pair these two artists?  Well, it seems that in 2008 the curators of the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam polled visitors about which Van Gogh paintings they were sorry were not on exhibit there in Amsterdam.  The winners were “Starry Night” (of course), the self-portraits…. and “The Scream.”

Yeah.  “The Scream.”

This gave them an idea.  If the public confused Van Gogh and Munch already,  why not do an exhibit exploring their relationship?

It turns out there’s actually a lot to think about when comparing Munch and Van Gogh.  Even though Edvard Munch was ten years younger than his Dutch colleague, they both entered the art world the same year.  Van Gogh was a huge influence on Munch.

I had a great time at the exhibit, and was happy to see (one of) the original “Scream”s, as well as one of my favorite Van Gogh’s, “The Potato Eaters.”

The Scream (1 of 1)

Afterwards I took the streetcar to the Ekeberg Slope, a large wooded park that contains, among many other things, the spot depicted in Munch’s “The Scream.”  While at that spot working on my stupid Scream photo, I fell into a terrific extended conversation with a mountain biker.

He made an interesting observation about Americans.  “You are a much more mobile people than we are, ” he said.  “In Norway, if the main business of a town closes, the people who worked there just stay put and go on public assistance.  In America they’d be much more likely to move somewhere else to look for work.”  I wonder if he’s right?

There were some lovely views from this high park.  This group of new office buildings are referred to as “The Bar Code.”

The_Barcode

 

And here’s a family enjoying the view.

 

Oslo_Fjord_1

 

And this gorgeous couple adding to the view:

Love at the Oslo Fjord
Love at the Oslo Fjord

I also had a great time taking a Segway tour of Oslo.  I had two tourguides, who for some reason were both named Andy.  “Our boss is also named Andy, ” they admitted.  Some things are best left unexplained.

The Andys
The Andys

The only hitch to this particular Segway tour was when I fell.  My hands slipped off of the controls when I hit a bump and the device went forward and I fell straight back.  My foot was black and blue for nearly a month.  Worse, I might have jostled something in my spine, as a week later I began having nerve pain in the extremeties.  My doc and I are currently investigating.  The symptoms are gradually getting better, which I think is a combination of natural healing and the fact that I’ve been lifting weights for the last five weeks; surely getting a little stronger would help this sort of injury.

By the way, I saw this image on a wall in a hall in a mall in Oslo.  Does it remind anyone of a video game from last year?

Remind You of Any Video Game- (1 of 1)

 

Average Rating: 4.8 out of 5 based on 287 user reviews.

Facebooktwitter
Facebooktwitterrssinstagram

So hear they are.  My train tickets for one of the four rail journeys I’ll be making during ScandiRAYvia.

TICKETS

But these aren’t just any train tickets.  Nope, nope, nope.  This is my ticket to the Flamsbana, regarded as one of the most spectacular rail journeys in the world.

The trip from Oslo to Bergen itself travels through the highest rail altitude of any train ride in Europe.  And the Flamsbana, which is a spur about halfway through this trip, which takes you down to the fjord, is one of the very steepest railway lines in the world on normal tracks.

Here’s the route:

flamsbana (1)

 

kart-flaamsdalen-stort-copy

I love trains.  No, I love love love LOVE trains.  I’ve loved them my whole life.  Perhaps it’s because I’ve always believed I was conceived on a train. (Ew.  Made you think about it.)

This train trip was one of the main reasons for putting ScandiRAYvia together.

It’s fitting that it’s almost at the end of my trip.

Now all I need is some good weather so all of those postcard-pretty mountains, meadows and fjords are presented in their best light!

Flaam-Railway-Norway-740

Average Rating: 4.5 out of 5 based on 178 user reviews.

Facebooktwitter