Paris/Brussels
April 24, 2011

Distance Traveled Today:  162

Distance So Far:  7700

I have achieved the Notre Dame bell tower! It wasn’t easy.  Months ago when I planned this excursion, I didn’t realize it was to be Easter Week.  Paris was a zoo, and the lines for everything were horrifying.  On Saturday I gave up on the slow-moving line to climb the bell tower.  I arrived early on Easter Morning, got a much better place in line, and got comfortable for my wait.

Evidently all Scout Guides in Europe come to Notre Dame on Easter Sunday.  There were thousands of them, all in uniform.  I kept wanting to stop them to find out if they practiced institutionalized discrimination like the Boy Scouts of America did, but I didn’t.  I looked it up online later and the answer was more complicated than I expected.  The Guides are completely affiliated with the Catholic Church, so there has been a traditional animus against atheist and homosexual members.  However, in many European countries, these restrictions have been relaxed or eliminated in recent years. 

The best thing about the Scout Guides was that, since they were European, many of them were smoking.  In uniform.  It was fantastic. I am very sorry I didn’t get a good picture of that.

At last it was my time to climb.  I have to say that getting to the top of the bell tower was certainly harder than it was when I was 27, but I made it without too many palpitations.  Got some good photeax on the top of the Cathedral.  The gargoyles just don’t let you down.

After Notre Dame, I went to that neighborhood the waitress had recommended last night:  Butte aux Cailles.  Must confess I was underwhelmed.  Perhaps because everything, and I mean nearly EVERYthing, was closed for Easter.  I went back to my favorite Montparnasse haunt and had a nice ham egg and cheese crepe for lunch.  Then headed to the Gare du Nord early.

If I was a bit let down by my Paris trip, I actually think that’s okay.  I still really enjoyed myself, and if it wasn’t as golden as it was in my memories, that’s a good life lesson.  Memories are fine, but it’s the present that counts.  Maybe after this trip my new favorite city will be Tallinn, or even Moscow.  Who knows?   The best of times must always be NOW, or else we’re doing it wrong.

No problems on the train returning from Paris.  I actually enjoyed my overlong stay at the Gare du Nord.  Sometimes, even in Paris, it’s good to just sit still and do nothing.  I read, worked on my computer, took pictures, etc.

It is impressive to make the 162 miles between the two cities in just eighty minutes.

I love trains.  I love everything about trains.  I love movies and books set on trains.  I like traveling by train better than any other form of travel, by a wide margin.  Trains are so civilized.

“See that big sign, with all the trains schedule on it, Son?”

Memorable Train Rides

Menton (French Riviera) to Pisa, Italy, 1987

Los Angeles to San Francisco, 1994

London to Edinburgh, arriving in Edinburgh in a beautiful snowfall, 1998

Montreal to New York during fall foliage, 2003