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Brussels, Belgium
April 17, 2011

Day of Tourism

Les Lesbiens Belgique
Les Lesbiens Belgique

Let’s just get this out of the way right here:  The whole low carb thing is just going to take a beating while I’m in Europe.  Other than outright starvation and suicide, I don’t see any way around that.  I’ll concentrate on recovering this summer in Los Angeles.

It's a giant iron molecule!  There's nine atoms,  one for each province of Belgium,  see,  get it?!?
It's a giant iron molecule! There's nine atoms, one for each province of Belgium, see, get it?!?

Brussels if famous for five foods and beverages:  Beer, mussels, chocolate, waffles and french fries.  Today, in the interest of cultural literacy of course, I tried three of them (the first two will remain untried).  The waffle was delicious, but the standard utensil you get with a street waffle in Brussels is this plastic, pixie-sized fork/shovel thing that’s woefully inadequate to the task at hand.  I broke mine immediately, and so by the time I had finished the delicious treat, I was pretty messy.  It was a sacrifice I was willing to make.

French fries.  Or, as they are called in this part of Europe, “frites.”  They’re good, they’re fine, but let’s face it, they’re just French fries.  Nothing you can’t get great examples of in the States.

The chocolate is another matter.  Oh, my.  The tour I took today included a lecture and demonstration at a chocolatier.  It was extremely informative and interesting.  And there were free samples afterwards.

I took a 3-hour comprehensive Brussels 101 tour, which started in Le Grand Place, the baroque heart of the city, and then motored us by coach (that’s European for “bus”) all over the place.  We saw the Atomium, which was built for the 1958 World’s Fair and is now considered the symbol of Brussels. We saw the royal palace, where all of the Belgian monarchs have lived (there haven’t been that many of them; it’s only been a country since 1830).  We saw lots of other stuff, too.

Inside this 18-meter-diameter sphere,  I assume there are Belgians smoking.
Inside this 18-meter-diameter sphere, I assume there are Belgians smoking.

After the tour I went and got my required photo of the city’s most famour article, the ridiculously over-famous Manneken Pis.  Yeah, the small statue of a urinating boy.  Fascinating.

Took several rides on the Metro, the sparkling clean and easy to use (once you figure out the goddamned ticket machines) public transportation system. 

I was taking pictures like mad, naturally.  While strolling through the Hot Middle Eastern Guy District (look it up), I descended into the Compte de Flandre Metro station and started taking photos of the cool art in the tunnel.  A few snaps in, I felt a tapping, as if someone gently rapping, rapping on my elbow.  It was and extremely polite policeperson, who explained to me that there was a 500 euro fine for taking photos in the subway.  “Really?!?”  “Yes, because of terrorisme.”  Okay, I get it.  I apologetically assured him I would comply and he waived the ticket.  I told this story to the IT guys in the office and they roared with laughter.  They had never heard of such a fine.

Cities You Feel Ridiculously Safe In

  • Brussels
  • Tokyo
  • Minneaoplis
  • Geneva

Average Rating: 5 out of 5 based on 167 user reviews.

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New York/Vienna/Brussels
April 15-16, 2011

Distance Today:  4816

Distance So Far: 7336

Very Nice Flight

Thank goodness for an exit row!  When you’re a big, claustrophobic person like me, extra leg room is everything.  I am truly a business-class sized traveler with a coach-sized budget.

The road to Brussels' Arc du Triomphe
The road to Brussels' Arc du Triomphe

True, my exit row was completely full and it was three steps from the bathroom, so I had people on top of me the entire flight, but it was worth it.

The flight even took off on time and landed in Vienna early.  Quelle concept.

The airline was Austrian, and it was run with Teutonic efficiency.  The flight attendants’ uniforms were very reminiscent of the Swinging 60s look.  The service was polite but chilly.

The seat right next to me belonged to a nice young woman who, before takeoff, went and fetched her husband and made him sit there instead.  “It’ll be better for your long legs.”  Nice wife.  In fact, they were so cute to watch because they were very young and almost painfully in love.  At one point the husband was negotiating with someone else near us to switch seats “so I can have my wife.”  I thought it was sweet that he put it like that.  Periodically during the long flight she’d come over from her seat in the next cabin and crouch in front of us and they’d hold hands and stare with idiotic infatuation at each other.  They’re lucky.  I hope their passion lasts.

Each seat, even in coach, had a “personal” video screen.  I never even opened mine.  I was busy finishing Zoe’s Tale by John Scalzi, which turned out to be just amazingly good.  Scalzi gets better and better with each book; he is becoming a science fiction voice to be reckoned with.  That and dungeon-crawling my way through the candy-colored Dragon Quest V on my Nintendo DS kept me busy.

Hey!  Cleveland has an arcade JUST EXACTLY LIKE THIS!
Hey! Cleveland has an arcade JUST EXACTLY LIKE THIS!

After eight hours we landed in Vienna.  What a drag that I didn’t have a direct flight to Brussels.  At least on Austrian I get 50% of the miles credited to my frequent flyer program.

Austria cracks me up.  It may just be me, but I swear you can smell the old-fashioned anti-Semitism there in the air.  It kept expecting “Tomorrow Belongs to Me” to be piped out of the sound system at the airport.  I remember the last time I was in Vienna, five minutes into a taxi ride to the airport, the taxi driver was already complaining about the Jews.  This was in 2006.  Yeah, they’ve really processed the lessons of World War II in Austria.

Because of the long flight and the six hour time change, I basically lost half a day, the second half of Friday.  After a 90 minute layover and a short flight to Brussels, it was almost noon (Saturday)local time when I landed.  Keep in mind that I had been traveling since noon on Friday.  To say I felt tired and gross would be  akind understatement.  As I posted on Facebook, I felt like a banana peel left out in the sun on a steaming New Orleand afternoon.  The only thing that kept me from being really miserable was that I knew the drill.  I am, after all, an expert traveler.

I checked into the exquisite Hotel Montgomery, a boutique jewell on the edge of the “European” District.  “European” District?  In Brussels?  As opposed to what, the Afghan District?  Turns out that means it’s where lots of the foreign consulates and offices are.

A canal without multicolored pinwheels is so dull,  n'est-ce pas?
A canal without multicolored pinwheels is so dull, n'est-ce pas?

I was delighted with the room, easily twice the size of my room in New York, with a huge beautiful and openable window facing the beautiful boulevard circle.  At first I worried that the proximity to the busy street would make the room loud, but the windows in the hotel are brilliant:  When you close them, all is silence.

Despite wanting to, resisted the temptation to go right to sleep.  I knew the only chance I had to get acclimated to the new time zone was to stay awake for several more hours and go to bed as close to a normal time as possible.

There’s a metro station 100 feet from the hotel, so I popped on down and was at the Grand Place in a couple of minutes.  The Grand Place is the tourist center of Brussels, and it had just the right amount of bustle and eye candy to keep me awake.  I made my way a few blocks to the Magritte Museum. 

I have always loved Magritte, even before he helped me win Ben Stein’s money on “Win Ben Stein’s Money” in 1997.  I had two big Magritte questions on the show, which helped me secure the win.   The Magritte Museum is similar to the Dali Museum in Tampa, in that it’s a large exhibit that nevertheless contains very few of the artist’s most famous pieces.  Didn’t matter.  I saw lots things that were new to me, and several of his cutout doves and images of dark houses under brilliantly lit skies were there.  Plus, due to the fact that I hadn’t slept in almost two days and was in practically an alpha state, it seemed appropriate to be viewing all of the crazy-ass Belgian’s surrealist images. 

After the museum, a nice long walk back to the neighborhood my hotel was in, a nice dinner, and then blissful collapse in my room.  

My Current Favorite Science Fiction Writers

  • John Scalzi
  • Robert Charles Wilson
  • Peter F. Hamilton

Average Rating: 5 out of 5 based on 252 user reviews.

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