Near Goteborg are two extensive archipelagos, artfully named The North Archipelago and the South Archipelago. I only had time to check out one of them. I chose the South, largely because none of its islands allow private motor vehicles. Impressively, your metro day pass also worked on all of the ferries that scoot around between the islands, so all you need to see them is a bit of time and patience. In half a day I got to see a small fraction of what the islands had to offer, but that included a wonderful cross-island hike.
Here’s the Southern Archipelago.
The islands seem to have a contest that I can really get behind.
Yes, please.
There were lots of dreamy summer homes on Vargö, the main island I explored.
I shared the island with this very attractive couple and their adorable hounds.
There were lots of picturesque sheep.
Not to mention a picturesque ferryman.
I would have loved to have had more time to explore the islands!
Next up: In and around Goteborg.
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On Galma Stan, the small island that contains the Old Town, there’s a museum dedicated to Alfred Nobel and his prizes. It didn’t sound particularly sexy, but hey, I had the Stockholm City Card, didn’t I? So I popped in, and boy was I glad I did. It turned out to be a very interesting place.
SHOULD HAVE WON
I took a tour with a tiny and slightly smarmy Swede who was very articulate and informative. I learned all sort of interesting things about Mr. Nobel, including:
He never married or had any children.
He was born in Sweden, but lived most of his life in other countries (including twenty years in Russia).
95% of his fortune was left to create the foundation for his prizes. His extended family members were not amused.
The awards, given in Physics, Chemistry, Medicine, Literature, and Peace, were to be given to people whose work in those fields in the past year had provided the greatest benefit to the world.
Each prize is given by a different organization. Four of these are in Sweden, and as everyone knows, the Peace Prize is given in Norway and chosen by a Norwegian organization. Why is this? I had always wondered, and I thought, finally I’ll find out why!
Are you ready for the answer? It’s kind of awesome:
TOTALLY SHOULD HAVE WON
We have no idea. Seriously. Nobel offered not a syllable of explanation in the will. He simply ordered that the Peace Prize be given by Norway.
Of course, there are many theories, perhaps the most important being that Norway was more prominent in the international peace movement at that time than Sweden was. But still: We don’t know. I like that little bit of mystery.
By the way, Nobel did not provide for the Economics Prize. It was created later by the central bank of Sweden, given out “in memory” of Nobel, and the prize money comes from Swedish taxes, rather than the Nobel endowment.
When the tour was over, I approached our Pocket Viking tour guide with my particular pet peeve: The Literary Prize. That prize is given by the Swedish Academy, which happens to meet in quarters on the second floor of the very building the museum was in.
You could make a very good argument that he deserved to win.
“SO, ” I asked, “What do the folks upstairs have against writers who have actually moved a few books? I’ll waive the requirement that it be given to a work created in the year before prize; science and even literature don’t really work that way. BUT. Didn’t Nobel’s will specifically state that it was to be given to the person whose work had benefited the world the most? Wouldn’t that by definition mean the winner would be a popular writer? Why, instead, does the Academy use the prize as an affirmative action program for obscure writers from exotic places who haven’t sold twenty books, but whose politics the Academy likes and whose work they’d like to promote?”
P.V. Tour Guide was sympathetic to my point. I continued, “Vonnegut and Bradbury clearly did more good in the world with their work than the people the Academy hands out the prize to. It’s clearly in violation of Nobel’s will.”
Turns out that, regarding Alfred Nobel’s will, I’m a Strict Constructionist.
NOTE: The image at the top of this post is of a very sweet crowd that had gathered to greet me as I left the Nobel Museet, which is the background. After a taxing three hours signing autographs, handing out advice, and kissing babies and boyfriends, I had to beg off. One does need one’s rest and a modicum of privacy.
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Here’s one of the things I most admire about Sweden: the constitutional right of allemansrätten , or “freedom to roam.” The concept is that nature belongs to everyone. In Sweden, you can basically pick wildflowers, berries, or mushrooms anywhere, except in a private garden or right up by someone’s house. You can also ski, hike, and ride bicycles practically anywhere, and fish or use an unpowered boat in virtually any body of water.
Can you imagine this being the case in the United States? Can you imagine Barbara Streisand having a meltdown because hippies were picking wild sage on her Malibu compound? Or a Texas rancher sitting by idly while a group of hikers traipsed across his land, saying hello to his cattle?
Map Boy goes where he wants.
I imagine this entire idea would sound terribly commie/socialist to many Americans. Perhaps that’s why I like it so.
And as long as we’re talking about how Sweden is different…
Check out this photo:
This beggar was energetically working all of Old Town the whole time I was there. Here he’s chatting with some children. Their parents are about thirty yards away. Now I ask you to imagine something.
Imagine this happening in the US.
Just think about it for a moment.
If a street beggar began engaging with a group of children in Dallas, or Boise, or Atlanta, the parents would absolutely lose their shit. There’d be screaming. There’d be threats. Cops and lawyers would be called. The children would be checked over for horrible poor person diseases and taken in for counseling. You know it’s true.
Why the difference? In America we fetishize fear. Fear and stupidity and ignorance go together like peanut butter, jelly and bacon. Swedes don’t think the loaf of bread is possessed by demons or that the beggar is going to eat their children.
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Why would I want to visit Scandinavia in the first place?
Oh, come on. It’s Sweden. It’s Denmark. It’s Norway.
I’ve been drawn to these places for as long as I can remember. There’s just something magical to me about all those beautiful storybook cities sprinkled across little archipelagos. The snow, the mountains, the lakes, the politics: It’s just always clicked with me.
There are a million reasons to go. Aside from all of the obvious ones, here’s a few really specific ones for me:
Trolls
I’m a documentary junkie, and one of my all-time favorite documentaries of Trollhunter, which tells the shocking true behind-the-scenes story of how the Norwegian government secretly controls the wild population of trolls. I hope to see some troll action while I’m in Norway.
Vikings
I don’t really have to explain this one, do I?
The Scream
The one by Edvard Munch. Okay, there’s four of them, but one of them is in Oslo.
Edvard Grieg
Peer Gynt. “In the Hall of the Mountain King.” (See Trolls, above).
Pining for the fjords
The Girl with the International Book and Movie Franchise
Did you READ these books? Did you SEE the movies? If they’re not enough to make you want to visit Stockholm, you’ve got no blood in your veins. And the Millennium Trilogy is merely the most famous of the exploding film and fiction genre of Nordic Noir. If you haven’t seen it, you should check out Headhunters, and read the book as well!
I already have my ticket to the Millennium Walking Tour! Gonna get my Lisbeth Salandar on!
Train Rides
I’m a huge fan of train travel, and I’ll be doing a LOT of that on this trip, including a very special journey that I’ll discuss more in an upcoming episode.
There are more reasons, but these are plenty enough to get started on.
Are YOU drawn to Scandinavia at all? What would you be interested in seeing there? Let me hear from you in the comments!
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